• CyberFair2022

  • Embroidery In India

  South

Embroidery/Handicraft/Handloom

Embroidery/Handicraft/Handloom describes a craft or occupation requiring skilled use of hands. Handicrafts are items made by hand, often using simple tools. The Sixth Economic Census has recently incorporated a major section on craft industries keeping the huge contributions this industry is making towards the economy of the entire country. The Census describes the rural character of these industries. The top States of Southern India, in terms of number of handicraft/handloom establishments are Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Goa and Tamil Nadu. One of the significant aspects of South Indian hand loom industry is that it employs significant number of women. Central to the discussion of artisan industries is the important role played by tourism industries. Within the contemporary tourism it is increasingly observed that tourism itself is becoming the arena for the development of skills in most of the third world countries that is well reflected in the tourism led artisan production process. South Indian handicraft industries like the other craft industries of the world are closely tied up with tourism industries. This association has been an important catalyst in the survival and growth of the artisanal products by providing a wider market for the craft economies. The nature of tourism industries is far from being uniform or certain. However, it has been proved in many empirical studies that many artisanal economies are increasingly becoming part of the tourism industries as we witness a rise in tourist flows across the world.

Hand Embroidery of Goa

Hand embroidery is one of the oldest and richest of handicraft, which consists of decorating a piece of fabric with needle and various types of yarns, by creating intrinsic and amazingly beautiful stitches over the fabric and in mainly popular in a town of Goa :- Calangute.

Usually the embroidery is done on a cotton, velvet or a satin cloth, for which the required cloth is taken, and is cut according to the required measurements, once the cutting is done, it is then marked with required designs and motifs, the way of transferring designs depends upon the region where the embroidery is done, in few places it is transferred with the help of butter paper, in few places it is drawn directly upon the cloth, in few places templates are used.

Usually the embroidery is done on a cotton, velvet or a satin cloth, for which the required cloth is taken, and is cut according to the required measurements, once the cutting is done, it is then marked with required designs and motifs, the way of transferring designs depends upon the region where the embroidery is done, in few places it is transferred with the help of butter paper, in few places it is drawn directly upon the cloth, in few places templates are used.

Aari Art Work

Aari work embroidery uses beads and stones to create a sparkling effect on the garments. These embellishments are placed in such a way that they create an intrinsic web like pattern to create an intrinsic look. Aari work is more of thread and needle work; however, stones and other embellishments are used to add richness to the embroidery. Aari work is considered appropriate for all seasons as it can be done on velvet, silk, cotton, cotton silk, chanderi, and many other fabrics. This makes Aari embroidery products suitable for people of all demographics. Hand embroidery Aari work is used to create intricate designs all over the garment or on certain parts of the product to enhance its look.

Kasuti Embroidery in Karnataka

Kasuti is a traditional form of folk embroidery practiced in the state of Karnataka. Kasuti work which is very intricate sometimes involves putting up to 5,000 stitches by hand and is traditionally made on dress wear like Ilkal sarees, Ravike and Angi or Kurta. The Karnataka Development Corporation (KHDC) holds a Geographical Indications (GI) protection for Kasuti embroidery which provides Intellectual Property rights on Kasuti to KHDC. GI is an indication used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess the qualities or reputation that are due to that origin.

Beaded and Banjara Embroidery of Andhra Pradesh

Embroidery in Andhra Pradesh exhibits a unique style. Vibrant and innovative creations are the most prominent identification of the embroidery of this state. Beaded embroidery is practiced on fabrics to decorate clothes and garments with beads of different colours. It renders a fancy look to the fabric. It is an ancient form of art which was also practiced with precious stones to ornament the royal attires. Varied motifs are made with this embroidery including geometric and floral patterns. Banjara embroidery is another form of embroidery which utilizes shells, glass beads, mirrors and coins. Appliqué‚ work is also famous embroidery of Andhra Pradesh. The patterns used in the embroidery of this region is known for their quality raw materials and unique patterns created by the local artisans.

Embroidery of Tamil Nadu

Embroidery of Tamil Nadu is mainly centred in the Sri Perumbpadur region. Beautiful handkerchiefs and saris embellished with different types of embroideries are made in this region. Needle, multicolored threads and beads form intricate and exquisite patterns on fabrics. 'Pugur' style of embroidery is practiced by Todu community of Nilgiri hills to make exclusive shawls. 'Jaali' or net embroidery is also a famous art of this state that represents floral or geometrical patterns with the aid of buttonhole stitches. A variety of artifacts’ are prepared using the charming embroideries of the state by the local artisans.

Most of the embroidery work employs a set of common stitches providing them variations in terms of patterns and colours. Embroidery work has always been in demand in the country and a numerous craft industries have also flourished. Several skilled artisans have developed this art even more by incorporating new ideas and patterns. Embroidery in Southern India is one of the most cherished arts of India.

Artisans as resilient communities: case reports

The craft persons of Southern India have always shown their resilience spirit amidst crisis. The recent corona outbreak though has devastated their economic backbone but has not been able to devastate their spirit of resilience, the same spirit that have kept them alive even amidst large scale automation/industrialization. Production for glory and production for saving the tradition still is visible in the spirit of the artisanal communities amidst the marketisation of their craft. While the newspapers and media channels are being flooded with news of untold stories of misery and agony, few news reports also become visible of those untold stories of strength power and resilience. Few of such stories/interviews need to mention here. Prakash Joshi a master craftsperson says: We are artists, and the artist shapes the tomorrow with his art, dissipating the negative energy because after a thick dark night there is always a golden morning. Mahbubani craftsman, Devendra Jha has been using chemical colors for years, unable to buy paints during lockdown, he went back to making natural colors like earlier times and is eager to refine his art and create something unique by utilizing this time.

Embroidery/Handicraft/Handloom production, and COVID-19

Recent Corona crisis has affected enormously this industry in many ways almost altering its normal processes. Similarly, according to All India Artisans and Craft workers Welfare Association (AIACA) while there was a general sense of panic and uncertainty, the responses to the pandemic had been varied. The study discovered that even in the face of a health emergency, livelihood and financial issues were the most important ones. Widespread cancellation of orders, pending payments, a mounting product inventory, shipments on hold or stuck in transit and a generalized sense of confusion about area- specific government relief activities and measures, were some of the difficulties faced by both artisans and craft enterprises during phases 1 and 2 of the countrywide lockdown. Production for business came to a complete standstill. According to an estimate most of the artisan enterprises that fall under the MSMEs would incur heavy losses.